Sunday, 26 July 2015

31. Shoal Harbour to Forward Harbour / Douglas Bay

Now a month into the trip we were keen to get some better / hotter weather and planned to get back to the crowds and warmer weather of Desolation Sound. We wanted to just cover the miles and get there, but planning two days for the leg versus just one did make it far more relaxed and allow for some sight-seeing on the way.We planned a 60+ nautical mile day.
We also had heard of Douglas Bay being a good mid-point stop, so wanted to give it a try for future reference.
We upper anchor at 9:45 and popped by Echo Bay again on the way past - just to check it out. Then we had picked a winding route through the islands. We started with Cramer Passage and past the Fox Group - which looked like a great spot to explore another time. Health Bay also looked very interesting and a guide book said that sometimes the band will grant you a tour.
Health Bay longhouse

Instead of heading out to the more direct route across Blackfish Sound we turned SE. Around Midsummer Island and towards Knight Inlet we started running in and out of fog patches that were blowing in from the west, with lots of chatter on the radio about visibility (and lack thereof) in the strait. Radar on! It actually made for a very pretty section in among the islets.
Approaching Knight Inlet - in a clear patch

We passed the abandoned village of Mamalilaculla, and having visited onshore last year were content to keep going past. A number of boats were anchored in the small bay to the north. It might have been tough to squeeze in if we had wanted to!


Past Village and Harbledown Islands was a similar route to what we did last year, through running N to S versus S to N it looked totally different! Turning SE again we went inland so we could check out Baronet Passage on the way back out to Johnstone Strait. Beware Passage commanded the same level of focus as last year to get through. We followed the recommended route through the rocks and were fine, but noted it would not take much inattention to end up on one!


We found Baronet Passage pretty straightforward and not particularly scenic in of itself. We did have a 2+ knot kick through which was welcome.

A 180 degree turn around Cracroft Point and we were back into Johnstone Strait. Now we had a straightforward 5 hours to run to Douglas Bay. Wind was calm at the start. We ran across the edge of the Robson Bight ecological reserve but didn't see any whales. Wind started picking up as the afternoon went on and by Sunderland Channel was a good 15-20 knots - following seas so it was fine.

We had not experienced the effect of Whirlpool Rapids and getting into Forward Harbour/Douglas Bay, and one guide book noted one needs to be careful. We targeted the time for about a 2 knot ebb and it was totally fine - no worries at all.
Rounding the corner for Douglas Bay at 5:30 pm was a different matter. There were 13 other boats already there so anchoring in close was not an option. We picked an area a bit away from the masses and dropped the anchor in 75' of water at 6:00 pm, with 240' of chain - more would have caused challenges with swinging and the other boats. I subsequently heard from a seasoned cruiser that Douglas Bay is so often crowded that they rarely go there any more. Having to stop half way along the strait next time I would go back to Helmcken Island (that we did last year)



Click to follow route in Google Maps